The Secret Language of Ladies: Budapest Celebrates the Art of Hand Fans

In a world where etiquette dictated almost every movement, a small accessory became the most powerful tool of communication. Starting this Friday, an extraordinary exhibition will open its doors at the Budapest Auction House and the BÁV ART Gallery, presenting the fan not only as a fashion accessory, but also as a mirror of European cultural history.

Entitled “The Secret Language of Ladies – Fans Through the Ages,” the show presents precious exhibits from the 17th to 19th centuries. The exhibition features the private collection of Zoltán Németh, founder of the legendary Hungarian band Apostol.

What began with a chance purchase at a London flea market – a single 17th-century fan – has grown over the decades into an internationally significant collection.

With several hundred pieces, Zoltán Németh’s collection documents the craftsmanship and aesthetic changes over three centuries.

Visitors to the BÁV ART auction house and gallery can expect a journey through time and style. The exhibition spans the opulent early Baroque period, the playful elegance of the 18th century, and the detail-oriented historicism of the late 19th century. While the first fans in human history in ancient Egypt were made of ostrich feathers and palm leaves and gained importance in China under the rule of Wu-wang, the founder of the Zhou dynasty, the accessory reached its absolute heyday in Europe.

In the 17th and 18th centuries, life at court was unthinkable without fans. It was far more than a fashion accessory; it was a status symbol that underlined the social rank and elegance of its wearer. The materials used – often ivory, mother-of-pearl, the finest silk, or hand-painted parchment – made each piece a work of art in its own right.

Perhaps the most fascinating element of the exhibition is the introduction to the legendary language of fans.

In an era when women were often forbidden to express their feelings openly, they developed a complex system of gestures.

“Secret language” with fans (Photo: Hungary Today)

A gentle tap on the right cheek, slowly closing the fan, or holding it in front of the face—each movement carried a hidden message. This “secret language” allowed ladies to communicate longing, rejection, or secret rendezvous right in front of society without uttering a single word. It was a form of silent rebellion against the rigid boundaries of social morality.

The exhibition is a must-see for lovers of fashion, history, and arts and crafts. It offers a rare opportunity to view the delicate splendor of these now almost forgotten everyday objects up close.

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